Walk 226 – Ayrshire Coastal Path – Glenapp to Ballantrae via clifftops (9.5 miles)

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A spectacular way to begin the Ayrshire Coastal Path! Head uphill from Glenapp enjoying the views across Loch Ryan, north to Ailsa Craig and on a clear day as far as Northern Ireland. Count how many pheasants you see! You'll then head down to remote Currarie Port where you have the chance to spot some seals, before embarking on an incredible high level cliff-top hike. This section of coastline is home to a wide variety of bird life and depending when you visit you might spot eagles, cormorants, yellow wagtails, gannets, oystercatchers and more. Don't forget binoculars and a camera!

NOTE June 2024: Parking currently unavailable at Glenapp – recommend using the local bus service from Ballantrae to reach the walk start point. More information available from official Ayrshire Coastal Path website.

DIFFICULTY RATING: moderate/challenging. In my opinion this is the most challenging section of the Ayrshire Coastal Path. The first half to Currarie Port follows good gravel tracks with some gentle but sustained ascent. There are a couple of gates which are sometimes locked and need to be climbed. Second half is more challenging due to a number of steeper uphill sections and difficult terrain including tussocky grass, pathless grassy fields, and shingle beach (but the more people who walk this route the easier it will become!) This is also an exposed area in poor weather. Final section to Ballantrae follows surfaced single track roads and roadside pavement. There are several kissing gates on the route and a high likelihood of livestock. The route is way-marked however navigation skills would be useful around the Downan Hill/Langdale area due to unpredictable siting of electric fencing which is moved around to permit strip grazing.

See also Walk 121 – Glenapp to Ballantrae via inland route (9.3 miles) for a less challenging option.

  Small parking area across the road from Glenapp Kirk, just off A77 and also at  The Vennel, Ballantrae (KA26 0NH) (free public toilets available here). There are also bus services between Ballantrae and Glenapp Kirk. Recommend parking in Ballantrae and using the local bus service to travel to Glenapp to start the walk (10 min journey).

Purchase the official Ayrshire Coastal Path Guide Book

Route map - Glenapp to Ballantrae clifftop route

WALK REPORT: 19th February 2023

As a volunteer for the Ayrshire Coastal Path, I had watched on from behind my laptop as the hard-working Pathminder team spent 4 months at the start of 2022 on weekly work days down at Ballantrae establishing this cliff-top route. A total of 280 hours of volunteer time digging new paths, building kissing gates and bridges, and installing more than 20 new signs. I had seen many photos, kept our Facebook followers updated on progress, and imagined how spectacular it would be to walk along.

The fact that it took me 10 months to do so is shocking really…. A combination of starting a new business and then winter coming along, as well as the distance it is from home (over an hours drive) and the logistics of getting back to the car at the end. I’d also promised a few people I’d take them, and aligning our calendars proved difficult.

So I was delighted to arrive in Glenapp with a friend on a cloudy but dry Sunday morning. We were the only car parked up when we set off, and the only car there when we returned later. We also didn’t pass a soul during the walk until we were arriving into Ballantrae. Mixed feelings about that: I love walking away from the crowds and not meeting anyone is usually a sign of a great day out. At the same time, with one of my volunteer roles being PR for the Ayrshire Coastal Path, it made me sad that we were the only people out enjoying this magnificent section on a reasonable weather Sunday….

I had walked the first third of this route before, almost exactly 6 years ago back in Feb 2017. At that time the only option was the inland route between Glenapp and Ballantrae. With that first third under our belts again today, we set off excitedly into unknown territory.

Gravel track high above the Ayrshire coast
Walking along the first section of the route between Glenapp and Currarie Port. Ailsa Craig in the distance out to sea.
Stone ruins of a cottage
Not sure of the story behind this old cottage. Imagine living away out here!

Before long we arrived at the isolated bay of Currarie Port. Wow, it felt incredible being down by the water for the first time on this coastal path walk. Pausing a moment to take it all in before continuing on, we spotted a black blob in the water. A rock? Or could it be….. “a seal!” we both shrieked in unison. In all the time I’ve spent walking on the Ayrshire coastline I have very rarely been treated to a seal sighting so this was peak excitement. There turned out to be three of them, and rather than swimming away from us their curiosity brought them in for a closer look – which delighted us even more!

Shingle beach at Currarie Port, Ayrshire coast.
Arriving at Currarie Port – a definite “wow” moment!
Heads of two seals bobbing out the choppy water at Currarie Port, Ayrshire.
Two of the three seals – they were very curious about us (as we were of them)!

Saying goodbye to our new pals, we headed onwards to tackle the second half of the route.

Next up was the cliff-top walk. It felt amazing to be out here in this remote and beautiful environment. Tussocky grass made this section quite hard-going and we took it easy to avoid any twisted ankles. There was a faint path which hopefully with more boots walking on it will become more distinct.

Looking north along the grassy clifftop embankment of the Ayrshire Coastal Path just north of Glenapp, one of the marker posts in the foreground.
The cliff-top route is dotted with these reassuring black and white marker posts every now and then. Ailsa Craig still visible to the left.

I found this field section quite challenging for the old heart and lungs: the white-topped fence posts guided us along the field edge and let’s just say the field edge doesn’t run in a straight line! Lots of zig zagging downhill to go back uphill negotiating around the top of steep gullies. I used the old “stopping to admire the view” trick more than once (and a gorgeous view it was)! It was very tempting to cut across the field rather than stick to the edges, in fact it eventually became disheartening going down and up, down and up. I will admit that we eventually did do so – we could see that there was no livestock in the field nor any sign of crops growing so taking that into account we felt that under these circumstances we were still behaving responsibly (and saving ourselves a lot of energy).

Wooden fence in the middle of a grassy field
This fence sometimes needs to be climbed, depending on the location of the electric fencing when you are there.
Metal "squeeze stile" attached to a field-edge fence near Ballantrae, Ayrshire
Metal “squeeze stile” to facilitate strip grazing (not in use when I was there): Impressively, these were specially designed and built by the Ayrshire Coastal Path trail manager after consultation with the farmer about his needs!

It wasn’t long before we were heading back downhill towards the water and after some unexpected boggy foreshore and fording a burn (update summer 2023: there is now a footbridge here!) we had our sights firmly set on Ballantrae.

Not before stopping for a bite of lunch though! We picked a spot with a nice view and got stuck in. Always looking for an opportunity to get the emergency bothy shelter out, I suggested we try it to cut out the wind whilst we ate and after looking at me like I was daft, and several minutes of me trying to convince her of the benefits, my friend hesitantly agreed. Being a 4-person shelter it didn’t do too well in the wind with only two of us however it was good practice and my friend knows to bring ear plugs with her next time 😀

small burn
On my first attempt of this walk it was necessary to ford this burn – not too bad early in the year when the vegetation was low and you could access this big boulder in the middle, but more challenging during the summer months when the vegetation grew 5ft high, or at times when the burn was in spate. After an incident on one of my guided walks when one of the group slipped trying to cross, ending up with a wet leg (fortunately no injury), I was able to convince the Trail Manager to install a small footbridge. So as you happily walk across the bridge take a moment to thank the hard working volunteers who wasted no time coming out and making this fantastic improvement to the route! In fact, why not go a step further and show your appreciation with a small donation?
My friend and I shelter inside the emergency bothy, everything tinted red due to the colour of the fabric!
Inside the bothy shelter to escape the wind for lunch
A view across choppy water in Ballantrae Bay,  towards a local hill called Knockdolian
Sights firmly set on Ballantrae! Knockdolian standing proud in the backgroud – another walk for a different day… Photo taken June 2024.

The shingle beach presented a nice change from the grass and tracks we’d experienced so far. A small van parked up ahead indicated to us where our track must be so we headed towards it. The owners were collecting wood from the beach, presumably for a coal fire. After stopping to say hello to some curious young cows (thankfully behind the field fence), we began the final easy walk into Ballantrae.

A brilliant day out!

Shingle beach south of Ballantrae
Shingle beach south of Ballantrae
Herd of curious young cows lined up along the fence looking at us
Moooooooooooo. What you lookin’ at?
Cottages and shops on the main street in the village of Ballantrae
Arriving into Ballantrae village. The main road gets very busy with all types of vehicles including large lorries and coaches – coinciding with the Cairnryan-Belfast ferry coming and going further down the coast. Otherwise a very peaceful coastal village!

Go to: next section Ballantrae to Lendalfoot

Go to: full Ayrshire Coastal Path review

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